Maren Tiered Alabaster Tile Chandelier

The Maren Tiered Alabaster Tile Chandelier is built from narrow stone tiles with rounded ends, each pinned individually to a brass frame and hung in stepped tiers that draw inward as they descend. They overlap the way roof shingles do — every row lapping the one below, so the surface is layered rather than flat. Lit, each tile glows on its own and the rows read as bands of light stacked one under another, with the veining of the stone showing through differently in every piece.

• Finish: Gold Alabaster: natural white.
• Light source: E12 or E14 bulbs E12 in North America, E14 in Europe and most of Asia.
• Voltage: AC 110–240V
• Control: Wall switch — dimmable only with dimmable bulbs, see note below
• Real Photo: Every tile laid out — and no two the same stone

Design & Materials

Almost every tiered chandelier is round, which is fine over a round table and awkward over a long one. This one is rectangular — the frame is a rectangle, the tiers are rectangles, and the light lands as a long pool rather than a circle. That single decision is why it belongs above a rectangular dining table, a kitchen island, or a long console where a round fixture would leave the ends dark. Suspended on four brass chains from a square canopy, in warm brass against natural alabaster.

Alabaster is a natural stone, so every piece carries its own veining and subtle variation in color. The fixture you receive may therefore differ slightly from the images shown.

Specifications

Good to Know

Will I see the bulbs from underneath?

Yes, if you look straight up into it. The lowest tier draws inward but doesn't close, so the base is open rather than shut. Worth planning for rather than discovering.Two things fix it. Hang it a little higher than you would a closed-bottom fixture — over a table, toward the 36″ end of the range rather than 30″. And fit frosted or opal bulbs instead of clear ones. A clear filament visible through an open base is the one thing that would spoil this; a frosted bulb reads as another soft glow among the stone.

Which size should I choose?

20″ wide for a table or island of 36–48″, a breakfast nook, or an entry. 26″ wide for a dining table of 54–72″, a kitchen island, or an open-plan room.But check the height too, because the bigger one is deeper as well as wider. The 20″ is 18.2″ tall; the 26″ is 25.6″ — nearly as deep as it is wide. Going up a size costs you 7½ inches of headroom, and that's the part people forget until the electrician is on the ladder.

How low should I hang it?

Over a dining table, the lowest tile should sit 30–36″ above the tabletop — and on this fixture, aim toward the higher end because the base is open. Anywhere people walk beneath it, keep 7 ft of clearance above the floor. The chains shorten on site, so the height is set on installation day rather than at the factory.

Why don't the stone tiles match each other?

Because they're cut from real quarried stone, not moulded from resin. Every tile has its own veining, and some glow noticeably warmer than the ones beside them. On a fixture with this many overlapping pieces, that's the first thing you notice — and it's what tells you the stone is real. A set that matched perfectly would have to be plastic.

What kind of light does it actually give?

Warm and layered rather than one even glow. Because the tiles overlap like roof shingles, light comes out three ways at once — through the stone, around the edge of each tile, and between the rows where they step.So you see bands of light stacked one beneath another, brightest along the lapped edges and softer through the body of each tile. A single sealed shade can't do that; it has no edges for light to escape from.