Perrin Crossing Arm Globe Alabaster Chandelier

The Perrin Crossing Arm Globe Chandelier sets two horizontal arms across a slim vertical stem at different heights, each one curving down at its ends to cradle a veined alabaster globe. Nothing radiates from a centre — the arms simply cross, the way a mobile hangs in balance.

• Bulbs: 4 or 6 × G4 Bulbs not included. See the note below before buying replacements.
• Light source: G4 LED bulb Warm white recommended — cooler light drains the honey tones out of the stone.
• Voltage: AC 110–240V
• Ingress rating: IP20 No protection against water. Indoor, dry locations only.
• Preparation time: 5–10 days Made and inspected at our own workshop before dispatch.

Design & Materials

That structure is what makes it read so light for its width. A conventional chandelier gathers its mass around a hub; this one spreads it along two lines and leaves the space between them empty, so what you see from across a room is a drawing rather than an object. The globes sit at four different heights rather than in a ring, which is why the composition looks balanced instead of arranged.

The same globe appears at eye level in the Alabaster Orb Asteria Brass Wall Sconce — one stone sphere on a slim brass arm, sized for the wall rather than the ceiling.

Specifications

Good to Know

Is it real alabaster, and how would I know?

Yes — every globe is cut from natural stone. Three things tell you, and they are worth knowing whoever you eventually buy from. Weight. A stone globe is heavy and cool to the touch; a moulded one feels warm and light. The cut edge. Where the globe meets its fitting you can see a cut stone edge with the veining running straight through it — on a printed imitation the pattern stops at the seam. The veining under light. Real veins sit inside the thickness of the stone, so they shift as your eye moves and the globe looks different from each side. A printed pattern stays flat and repeats from piece to piece.

Will the globes match each other?

They are matched by hand within each fixture so that they read as a family — similar tone, similar density of veining, nothing that jumps out. But they are never identical, because each one is cut from a different part of a different block. Some come out pale and almost cloudless; others carry warm honey lines. That variation is the argument for stone over moulded glass, not a compromise on it.

How do I clean it?

Dust only — never use water on the stone. Alabaster is a gypsum mineral and is slowly soluble in water, so a damp cloth used regularly will dull the surface and eventually etch it. Use a soft dry cloth or a dry brush on the globes, and keep solvents, glass sprays and all-purpose cleaners well away.The metal arms can take a barely damp cloth as long as you keep it off the stone. Switch off and let the bulbs cool completely first.

How bright is it?

Plan it as the warm ambient layer rather than the only light in the room. Stone absorbs more light than opal glass does — that absorption is exactly what produces the soft internal glow — so four or six globes give a gentle, even wash rather than a bright one.Over a dining table or in a bedroom it carries the room comfortably. In a kitchen or anywhere you need to see detail, pair it with downlights or task lighting.

What bulbs does it take?

G4 LED bulbs — four or six depending on the version, warm white recommended, not included. A small capsule lamp is used deliberately: it disappears entirely inside the globe, which is part of why no bulb is ever visible.One thing to watch when you buy replacements. G4 comes in two voltages that look completely identical — mains voltage and 12V — with the same two pins and the same capsule. They are not interchangeable. This fixture takes [__ CONFIRM VOLTAGE] G4 LEDs; check the packet, and send us a photo if you are unsure.